Norquay Update
Submitted by Mark Klassen on Wed, 11/23/2022 - 11:11Older route updates (Escargot Corner and Mother, Jugs, and Steel) and new route (Longrider, 5.10a) on Norquay Upper Slabs.
Alberta
Headward (of the Lost Whitelighter) Crag Update
Submitted by aderbyshire on Sat, 10/08/2022 - 13:39A couple of additions to this crag in a quiet little corner of the Kananaskis valley.
Hangover Cure 10b/c 205M
Submitted by Ian.Greant on Wed, 05/20/2020 - 19:48Hangover cure - 6 pitch, 10b/c, 205m
FA P. Jones, N. Jones, T. Johns; Aug 5, 2019 – email: pj2@ualberta.ca
This is a 5.Fun, non-committing sport route on surprisingly good rock. The climb was originally started in fall of 2017 with a ground up approach after a friend’s wedding (hence the name....) In Aug 2019, we returned to complete the recommended finish and made it a true sport route. Although the majority of holds are solid, keep in mind this is a new route so watch for loose rock.
Guides Rock - The Wanderer - 5.9
Submitted by Mark Klassen on Wed, 01/09/2019 - 10:38Online media outlets: please refrain from reposting and distributing. Save it for TABVAR members and guidebook writers trying to make a living. Let it get out organically.
Baldy Slabs
Submitted by Ian.Greant on Mon, 09/03/2018 - 20:47Two fully bolted multi pitch routes just across from the Baldy Crag.
The left route is Slabby McSlabface 5.6 114m.
The right side route is Slabby Packsmacka. 5.7 124m
Either route can be accessed from either of the first pitches.
Both are fully bolted routes with generally good friction. West facing aspect. P1 remains shaded most of the morning but pitches P2-4 get sun most of the day when the sun is high.
10 quickdraws and 60 meter rope required. Using a 70 meter rope makes the rappels easier.
Mt. Rundle - Golf Course
Submitted by carlsonmark on Mon, 07/16/2018 - 11:37A new, old crag originally developed in the mid ‘90s by Peter Arbic and Joe Buszowski. The original two climbs are quite a bit harder than described in Chris Perry’s Banff Rock book and have likely not been repeated more than a handful times due to their sparse to non-existent fixed protection. Even with an easier additional route put up in the early 2000’s this crag likely never saw a lot of traffic.
Don't Rock the Boatswain - 14b
Submitted by carlsonmark on Fri, 06/15/2018 - 18:59From Miles Adamson:
Don’t Rock The Boatswain
FA of P1-P6: Miles Adamson and Zach Watson, September 2017
FA of P7: Miles Adamson, June 2018
Rainbow Wall, Blackfeather Canyon
Submitted by carlsonmark on Mon, 06/04/2018 - 20:31New Route development at the rainbow wall in Blackfeather Canyon. More info to come.
Delicate Sound of Thunder - 11a 18m 7 bolts
More Cowbell - 5.7, 315m
Submitted by carlsonmark on Mon, 06/04/2018 - 19:10From Jordy Shepherd via Facebook:
New Route! On Delta Wall, above Highway 40 across the valley from Nakiska Ski Resort: More Cowbell, 5.7, 315m, 10 pitches, bolted alpine sport route. See photos for topo, route description and directions to get there.
Thunderbolt 5.8 75m
Submitted by carlsonmark on Thu, 12/14/2017 - 16:07From Grant Parkin:
Thunderbolt 5.8 75m
F.A. - Grant Parkin, Trevor Jones. (Jul 2017)
