Alberta

Cory's Bloody Gash 5.10-, 255m

Submitted by carlsonmark on Sun, 06/28/2015 - 21:16

From Chris Volkart via the TABVAR Facebook page:

Cory's Bloody Gash 255m, 5.10-

FA J. Mills, Cory Boshman, Chris Volkart Sept 4, 2014

This route starts at an obvious crack 70m right of the spillway, it takes a series of corner systems up the right side of the crossing the route Niagra on the Bow at both routes 2nd pitch. The route gets its name from an unfortunate foot injury on the first ascent due to loose rock. Large rocks were removed on the first ascent, however some loose rock no doubt remains.

Sam's Gift 13a, 190m

Submitted by carlsonmark on Sun, 06/28/2015 - 21:04

From Sam Eastman via the TABVAR Facebook page.

Sam Lambert and myself put in a fully bolted 5 pitch rig on the lower and farthest east buttress of Castle.

Sam's gift 13a.

Approach is the same as for Castles in the sky. Use the same trail as for Eisenhower tower, except when you break above tree line look left to a rambling scree ledge that splits the lower buttress.

1st 12+ 35M. Slight overhung and cryptic.

2nd. 12+45M. Dihedral to Burly roof. (fixed draw at crux.)

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