Alberta

Cougar Creek New Crag - Sugar Shack

Submitted by carlsonmark on Sat, 06/13/2015 - 21:24

This is the very first crag you will reach about 12 minutes from the car. It is on the right (SE) side of the creek at the first mandatory crossing just after the well traveled trail in the woods which is optional after the large pile of boulders.

The crag is short but burly. The rock is surprisingly good though it might be a tad dusty.

STD Wall Left - New Routes

Submitted by carlsonmark on Sat, 06/13/2015 - 21:22

A number of new sport routes have been added to STD Wall Left in the Ghost. This part of the wall offers shorter climbs than the rest of the STD Wall, but provides some great climbing in the 5.8 to 5.10 grade on the same kind of amazing rock as the Central and Right walls.

Mt. Baldy Crag - New Routes

Submitted by carlsonmark on Sat, 06/13/2015 - 21:19

Danile Larsen writes:

There is a new route, Aeden's Adventure, 10a, 25m at the north west end of the area, around the corner and up the drainage about 50 m on the left. Comments on the route and on the grading are welcomed. Cheers, happy climbing

Prairie Creek - New Routes

Submitted by carlsonmark on Sat, 06/13/2015 - 21:15

Chicklet Fangs (5.10+; 6 bolts+anchors). Start ~20m uphill from Alberta Bound/Got Mersey Beat. Climb up the steep, bulge, moving left until below an open book corner. Climb up into the corner with difficulty and then cruise to the top. There is a "right" way and a hard way to do this. ;)

New routes where the approach trail meets the wall: (comment from Jon)

Phasmophobia** 5.10+, 110m

Submitted by carlsonmark on Sat, 06/13/2015 - 21:12

Phasmophobia is a great 3 pitch route located in the Phobia Amphitheater (Hydrophobia drainage) in the Waiporous wilderness area. We approached from marker 38 in the North Ghost and followed quad tracks on mountain bikes for a couple of hours before dumping the bikes and hiking the last couple of kilometers to get there... an approach from the Waipourous side might be quicker. The setting is stellar... think the Ghost about 15 years ago, before it became a haven for random camping and OHV use and the climbing and rock are pretty good too.

EEOR's Tail - Update

Submitted by carlsonmark on Sat, 06/13/2015 - 21:09

EEOR'S TAIL ADJUSTMENT!
The following is intended to bring some clarification and adjustment to my MCR regarding Castle Mountain and EEOR’s TAIL that I posted on the 2nd.
 

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