Alberta

Gift Card 90M 10C

Submitted by Ian.Greant on Fri, 07/11/2014 - 11:45

Gift Card 90M 10C
Armadillo Buttress, Grotto Canyon, Alberta.
Ian Greant, Brian Spear - 2013

This three pitch route is fully bolt protected with rap rings at each station.
I believe it crosses Asylum (10D, 1984, pg 423 Bow Valley Rock banffrock.ca for PDF copy) on the 3rd pitch.

Gear required: 70m rope (a 60M may work for descent but have not tested it)
14 draws (if you use a directional off the belay and want to clip the station when you arrive)

Pinko (IV, 5.9) Rim Wall

Submitted by BP on Fri, 09/13/2013 - 15:56

"The name is slang for someone who holds moderately leftist views and the route keeps trending left (quoted from Jones who did the FA with George Homer in '73) Sustained 5.8 climbing with occasional 5.10- moves. Intricate rock with amazing position and positive belay stances. Could be the Squamish Buttress of Canmore with more traffic," said Jon Walsh.

Sunshine Rock

Submitted by jon on Thu, 08/25/2011 - 11:25

Updated version of Sunshine Slab area topo previously posted. The shortest approach in the Rockies, located at the intersection of Healy Creek and the Sunshine Ski Area access road. Be careful not to damage bolt hangers when opening your car door.

Canmore Wall: "Kurihara" (5.10d, 430 m)

Submitted by admintvr on Wed, 08/24/2011 - 12:24

"This route was put up in tribute to Jiro Kurihara who passed away in an avalanche in Alaska in May 2011.
Jiro was a passionate climber who lived in Canmore because he loved the Canadian Rockies.

The route was bolted ground up on four days in July 2011. Mike Shoemaker, Christoph Spiegel, Aki Tawara, and Patrick Lindsay were patient belay partners on the first four days. Thank you very much.

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